
Delhi
The capital, where Mughal monuments sit right beside busy modern streets.
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A travel diary of the places I visited across northern and western India, from the sandstone forts of Rajasthan to the state my family comes from.
Hover over an icon to see the name, then click it to read about that place.

The capital, where Mughal monuments sit right beside busy modern streets.
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The Golden City in the Thar Desert, built around a fort people still live in.
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The City of Lakes, with palaces built along the water by the rulers of Mewar.
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The largest fort in India, taken three times and abandoned for Udaipur.
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My family's towns of Anand and Balasinor, and the palace of a former Nawab.
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Three temple towns across Saurashtra that are central to the Swaminarayan tradition.
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A lot of what I remember from this trip was not the buildings but everything happening around them. January is a good time to travel because two big celebrations fall in that month.
Uttarayan is the kite festival held on the 14th of January, and it is at its biggest in Gujarat. Whole families climb onto their roofs for the day and the sky fills with kites from morning until dark.
Navratri runs for nine nights and Gujarat holds the largest celebrations in the country, where people dance garba in circles late into the night.
The food changes a lot as you move between states. Rajasthan leans on dishes that keep well in a dry climate, like dal baati churma. Gujarati food is mostly vegetarian and a thali arrives as a tray of small bowls so you get a bit of everything. In Delhi the best eating is street food around Chandni Chowk.